How to deal with moles.
The best (in my view) pièges are scissor-like tines, welded to a bent spring steel plate. They are obtainable from farm shops like Agroserv, rather than the cheap sprung steel ones from briconautes. With a piece of wire loosely anchor the trip plate to one of the tines,so that in the event of a false trigger, you don't lose the it in the gallery soil.
Choose the latest mole hill and clear away the surface soil. With a spade, cut into the turf on three sides, and peel it back on the fourth uncut side. With a hand trowel, clear out the hole, and with a slim brick laying trowel find the two galleries that lead to and from the original mole hill and clean them out. (sometimes there are more galleries). Using two pièges, set them and place one in each gallery. With a stick anchor the back of the spring so that if the mole is particularly forceful, he can't push the trap out into your cleared hole. Relay the turf back over the hole. Check hourly for the first day, then when you can. If the trap goes off without the mole getting caught, odds on he'll be back. Simply clear out the affected gallery and reset the trap.
I'm sorry if this offends some people, but it's not a pleasant end. Most are caught around the middle and are suffocated, unable to breath. I will not tell you of the other ways as none are pleasant.
As an additional idea, rub the traps in soil before use, and use gloves, to avoid the mole getting your scent.
Catching them in a humane trap and transporting them away down the lane doesn't work as they find their way back, or another one moves in straight away. I like to think its the former, as it's amusing.
Normally solitary, they are very territorial, and even females do not tolerate males in their patch. They chase their young out as soon as they are able too.